Wool Fabric 101: Supplies for Sewing

Let's talk about the varying types of wool you'll regularly find on the market today and what's appropriate for historical costuming! There's a lot of different textile options and it can quickly end up confusing, so I'm not only going to break down the definition of each, but we'll look at the textile close up, see how it handles, and even sometimes how it makes up into a finished garment!

- Gauze
Sheer, soft
Space between threads wider to make fabric sheer

- Challis
Light weight, soft
Unstructured and mostly opaque (depending on color)

- Crepe
Light weight, soft
Bumpy texture and matte finish

- Jersey
Light weight, soft
Knit with stretch that is generally opaque (depending on color and stretch amount)

- Suitings
Broad term for midweight wools that are opaque and trend hard over soft hand

- Worsted
Midweight, mid to hard hand
Any suiting that uses worsted wool threads that will result in a smoother, glossier finish

- Tropical
Light weight, mid hand
Specifically light weight suiting

- Super Xs
Midweight, mid hand
Refers to number of threads packed in and quality of textile. Up to 200s

- Flannel
Midweight, mid hand
Has been fulled to soften one or both sides

- Gabardine
Midweight (sometimes heavy), mid to hard hand
Twill weave that trends towards stiffer depending on weight and thread count

- Satin/Sateen
Midweight, mid hand
Uses satin weave to achieve a glossier side

- Silk/Wool
Can be many different weaves, but often is a satin weave that has a harder hand

- Tweed
Mid to heavy weight, harder hand
Variegation in colors with a harder, rougher feel

- Bouclé
Threads are spun with extra loops added that create a lofty finish

- Coating
General term referring to heavier weight textiles that are best as outerwear or less fitted garments

- Melton
Heavy, mid to hard hand
Twill weave that is fulled

- Broadcloth
Heavy, mid to hard hand
Plain weave that is fulled and good qualities can keep a cut edge. Superfine, Fine, Medium, etc grades applied to discuss quality (not weight)

- Serge: Double sided Twill
- Kersey: Twill with a fulled side
- Stuff: Worsted wool (twill or plain)
- Linsey Woolsey: Linen and Wool mix
- Camlet: Goat/Silk, Camel/Silk, or later Wool/Silk
- Calamanco/Callimanco: Glazed wool

Favorite Suppliers
https://burnleyandtrowbridge.com/
https://www.thehistoricalfabricstore.com/
https://www.eatonhilltextiles.com/
("faux" fur) https://shop.intercaltg.com/

???? Scales: https://www.scienceimage.csiro.au/library/textile/i/1418/fibres-in-wool/
???? Crimp: https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_b/B409/welcome.html
???? Iran: https://www.aaacollection.com/film-eye-rams/
???? Camlet: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1103&context=tsaconf

00:00 Attributes
04:20 Animals
07:18 Wool Terms
12:24 Sheer & Light
15:57 Suitings
20:03 Special Weaves
25:10 Coatings
28:11 Historical
31:48 Modern

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????Music via Epidemic Sound (https://www.epidemicsound.com)