Making a Historically Accurate Maleficent Cosplay- Sewing the Houppelande

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Hi everyone! It's time to travel back in time and explore the 15th century. Maleficent, and Sleeping Beauty as a whole, are incredibly artistic renditions of a very old fairy tale. The movie is heavily influenced by the 14th/15th centuries, and not just because the story originated near that era. The designers were influenced by historical artworks, particularly The Lady and the Unicorn series.

This influence shows in Maleficent's character design and costume. Her overgarment is very close in style to the massive houppelandes worn as overgowns during the 15th century. So that's what I'm going to tackle sewing today! It's not a complex garment, though we know little about its construction or shape. From what I can find, there seems to be a gradual transition in how full the skirts are, how the waist is pleated, the collar shapes, sleeve shapes and edging, etc throughout its popularity. The houppelande is most often found in the first half of the century, but its influence on other large overgowns continues for decades.

My particular project is made from a black wool broadcloth (from a local store), linen with purple silk taffeta ( https://www.renaissancefabrics.net/product/amethyst-silk-taffeta/ ), and with a linen buckram interior (made from unbleached linen and gum tragacanth). It's worn over a black wool kirtle, linen smock, wool hose, and my poulaine shoes from December.

This project was inspired by some of my wonderful friends that are also doing their own spin on historically accurate Disney! Some have already started their series, others have yet to announce their character, so keep an eye out on these channels for more videos soon! And if you too are inspired to create (or assemble, or dress up in) your own historically accurate Disney character, I would LOVE to see it. Let's have fun, be inspired, and learn something new!

The Channels participating are:
Abby Cox : https://www.youtube.com/c/abbycox
Bernadette Banner : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSHtaUm-FjUps090S7crO4Q
Enchanted Rose Costumes : http://youtube.com/c/enchantedrosecostumes
Morgan Donner - https://www.youtube.com/c/Morgandonner
Costuming Drama (Merida): http://youtube.com/c/costumingdramallama
Karolina Żebrowska - https://www.youtube.com/user/czekoladaimaslo
Sewstine (Anna) : https://www.youtube.com/c/sewstine​
Angela Clayton : https://www.youtube.com/c/AngelaClaytonCostumery
Rachel Maksy - https://www.youtube.com/c/rachelmaksy

Socials
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/silk_and_buckram/
Tiktok: https://www.tiktok.com/@cloche_call
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nicolerudolph

Sources:
???? 1430 Red Houppelande: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/SK-C-1454?fbclid=IwAR2SxcokMXMU9eA6Z17GczCdgdO5cZL0EQAhHmq0j4R7q5KZsYTD9LHKalU
???? Houppelande Sketch: https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/P_SL-5218-191
???? St Catherine Carving: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/BK-18069
???? Illuminated Houppelande: https://blogs.bl.uk/digitisedmanuscripts/2016/02/a-calendar-post-for-february-2016.html
???? Green Houppelande: https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10509080f/f195.item.zoom
???? Fur Trimmed Houppelande: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_portrait_drawings_by_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger#/media/File:Bourges_Cath%C3%A9drale_1242.jpg
???? The Lady and the Unicorn: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lady_and_the_Unicorn
???? 14th century: https://ctlsites.uga.edu/whatthehistory/marriage-in-14th-century-england/
???? Maleficent renderings: https://disney.fandom.com/wiki/Maleficent/Gallery
???? Burny Mattinson Interview: https://animatedviews.com/2008/once-upon-a-dream-burny-mattinson-on-sleeping-beautys-maleficent/
???? Maleficent Disney Wiki: https://disney.fandom.com/wiki/Maleficent
???? Pentamarone: https://historical.ha.com/itm/books/children-s-books/giambattista-basile-stories-from-the-pentamerone-london-macmillan-and-co-limited-1911/a/6025-37892.s
???? Perrault: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Perrault#/media/File:Charles_Perrault02.jpg
???? Brothers Grimm: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5a/Brothers_Grimm_Blow.jpg
???? Sleeping Beauty Ballet: https://petipasociety.com/the-sleeping-beauty/
???? The Art of Sleeping Beauty: https://riealfilms.com/sleeping-beauty-1959-solidified-animation-as-artform-disney-film-article/
???? Claire Hummel: https://www.clairehummel.com/

Perrault's Sleeping Beauty: https://www.pitt.edu/~dash/perrault01.html
Little Briar Rose: https://www.pitt.edu/~dash/grimm050.html

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